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dash cam

18K views 39 replies 21 participants last post by  PJM 
#1 ·
I am sure you have all heard this before but here goes.

Just attended appointment at Halfords to have a dashcam fitted and was told to leave the car and call back in one hour.

Returned to store to be given the key back and was informed they can't fit dashcams on an I Pace as there was no live
electrics and it could drain the battery. i suggested the battery was quite large but this fell on stony ground.

Anybody solved this problem as I really like a record of what is happening on the road in front of my car
 
#2 ·
There is an adaptor for dash cams which plugs in to the OBD socket under the steering wheel. Costs about £5.99 from a well known internet site. It is mentioned elsewhere on this forum but I have failed miserably in attaching a link. Sorry!
 
#3 ·
Fitting a dash cam on a Jaguar I-Pace is moderately easy.
For a start there are 12v feeds in the overhead console, one 12v always on and the other goes off when you lock the car. (It is the interior lighting circuit!!)

You need to go the www.powerfuluk.com
Entrer Item Part No. EWL200-Tap-Loom
or Part No. EWL303-Kit if your dash cam is powered by USB (5v)

This gives you an always on feed. I've used this for months with no appreciable 12v battery drain.

This for the New Defender but fits every JLR vehicle from the RR Evoque onwards including I-Paces, F-Paces and E-Paces.

I'll nag Simon at Powerfuluk to add it to the Jaguar listing!

If you really want a feed that does go off then with that same loom (USB or 12v) tap into pin 1 feed instead of the pin 6 feed used.

So Pin 1 is 12v and goes off when the car is locked
Pin 6 is 12v all the time, never goes off.
Pin 4 is ground (-ve) There are other pins that are ground but Pin 4 is the one I use.

The over head console is very easy to get into, a trim tool makes it VERY easy, and there is plenty of room above it to store spare cable!
Follow the guides on PowerfulUK.

The cable to the dash cam just need to be pushed down to the windscreen by gently pulling the head lining to get the plug through, which is fairly pliable. There are some points around the edge that it is held up by magnets!
This is so much easier than hiding cable behind A pillar trim etc.
There is absolutely no need to find a way to the cable to under the rear seat fuse box!!

Be prepared that you will get a very iffy GPS signal to the dash cam if it is a variety that has GPS speed and location on it.
The interior of the car is a very good Faraday Cage because of the windscreen and roof head and UV coating. Well documented!
There is a very simple cure for this.
Buy from Amazon a GPS repeater, about £30. Powered by USB and you put the antenna under the wiper trim in the bonnet. The receiver up in the space in the overhead console near the dash cam. Simples!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01FCY8B2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stay safe

Ian
 
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#5 ·
ianipace said:
Be prepared that you will get a very iffy GPS signal to the dash cam if it is a variety that has GPS speed and location on it.
The interior of the car is a very good Faraday Cage because of the windscreen and roof head and UV coating. Well documented!
There is a very simple cure for this.
Buy from Amazon a GPS repeater, about £30. Powered by USB and you put the antenna under the wiper trim in the bonnet. The receiver up in the space in the overhead console near the dash cam. Simples!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01FCY8B2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stay safe

Ian
Brilliant Ian, thanks for sharing. Could you please give me more details on how to install the GPS antenna? How did you get from the overhead console down and out to the wiper trim?
 
#6 ·
Right folks, sorry forgot to include the 'routing of the GPS antenna' section!

To start with, there is room in-between the headlining and roof to put the GPS receiver and spare cable (USB and the cable coming from the Antenna).
Now to install this open the bonnet, sorry frunk for those across the pond, and undo the two plastic trim screws that cover the 12v batteries. You can now see the bulkhead to the interior of the car. Choose either a grommeted hole already there and push the antenna SMA connector through. If you want you can drill your own hole and use your own grommet.
The antenna has a 3M sticky pad so it can be stuck to the underside of the black windscreen plastic trim.
You will have to drop the glove box to get to the back, which is not the easiest thing to do! It is meant to unclip to allow the pollen filter to be changed.
There are two main parts to the GPS receiver/transmitter as you can see. The receiver antenna (The bit that needs to be outside the car to get a good signal) has a long cable, long enough to mount it at the rear of the car.
The GPS antenna is the small flattish square thing with the coil of wire attached in the Amazon photo, by the way.
You will have to feed the wire up the A pillar and under the headlining, not too difficult.

I haven't tried it, but as the rear roof section on the left and right of the 'shark fin' antenna is plastic, so it might work keeping the antenna inside the car. You would only have to feed the cable along the edge of the headlining, a very simple task. This would save the faff of finding a way for the cable and SMA plug to get from the front inside the car!

With GPS unit in the Centre console, position it as close to the Dash Cam as you can, it doesn't have to be touching it, just near. You will then get a very good GPS signal inside the car!
My car is at the dealers, so when it is back I'll take some photos and post them.

Stay safe

Ian
 
#40 ·
Right folks, sorry forgot to include the 'routing of the GPS antenna' section!

To start with, there is room in-between the headlining and roof to put the GPS receiver and spare cable (USB and the cable coming from the Antenna).
Now to install this open the bonnet, sorry frunk for those across the pond, and undo the two plastic trim screws that cover the 12v batteries. You can now see the bulkhead to the interior of the car. Choose either a grommeted hole already there and push the antenna SMA connector through. If you want you can drill your own hole and use your own grommet.
The antenna has a 3M sticky pad so it can be stuck to the underside of the black windscreen plastic trim.
You will have to drop the glove box to get to the back, which is not the easiest thing to do! It is meant to unclip to allow the pollen filter to be changed.
There are two main parts to the GPS receiver/transmitter as you can see. The receiver antenna (The bit that needs to be outside the car to get a good signal) has a long cable, long enough to mount it at the rear of the car.
The GPS antenna is the small flattish square thing with the coil of wire attached in the Amazon photo, by the way.
You will have to feed the wire up the A pillar and under the headlining, not too difficult.

I haven't tried it, but as the rear roof section on the left and right of the 'shark fin' antenna is plastic, so it might work keeping the antenna inside the car. You would only have to feed the cable along the edge of the headlining, a very simple task. This would save the faff of finding a way for the cable and SMA plug to get from the front inside the car!

With GPS unit in the Centre console, position it as close to the Dash Cam as you can, it doesn't have to be touching it, just near. You will then get a very good GPS signal inside the car!
My car is at the dealers, so when it is back I'll take some photos and post them.

Stay safe

Ian
Hi
I have taken the panel off under the front bonnet and for the life of me I cannot see a way through to the cab.
Would really appreciate a bit of advice please?
Uk right hand drive
Thanks
Phil
 
#7 ·
Topdown said:
How do you get power to the antenna under the wiper trim?
The antenna is fed power from the Tx/Rx unit and that stays in the overhead console and is powered by USB (5v)

You will need the PowerfulUK lead which as the USB power box on it. If by any chance you need two USB feeds then buy the one without the USB box and buy from Ebay or Amazon a 12v to 2x USB sockets box and connect that to the break out lead.
JZK Car Power Converter DC 12V to 5V/ 3A Voltage Converter with Dual USB Adapter Connectors for phone charging car audio radio etc

https://www.amazon.co.uk/JZK-Converter-Voltage-Connectors-charging/dp/B06XSCCLCD/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=12v+to+2+x+usb+sockets+for+dash+cam&qid=1617790917&quartzVehicle=72-11096&replacementKeywords=12v+to+x+usb+sockets+for+dash+cam&sr=8-5

Stay safe

Ian
 
#11 ·
Topdown said:
Thanks Ian,

What Dash cam did you fit?

My car is at the dealers for some warranty work and H288.
Strange that mine is in the dealers too but for for the Regen braking going on and off without warning! I got a phone call this afternoon to tell me it is fixed, I then asked about the H288 fix and whether they had done that. Unbelievably they didn't know about it! Surely they get send Topix updates, and surely they must read them? Anyway I get the car back tomorrow and then they will let me know when the back ordered part is in for the H288 fix. The wonders of JLR dealerships!

As for the Dash Cam I went for the BlackVue DR590W with the add on GPS antenna. Useless in an I-Pace!
But with the GPS repeater it works faultlessly.
I have a Nextbase dash cam with GPS and that too has a perfect signal using the GPS repeater as well.

Both are good dash cams, both makes have options to have a rearward facing camera, the choice is up to you!

Stay safe

Ian
 
#12 ·
2-BEV said:
There is an adaptor for dash cams which plugs in to the OBD socket under the steering wheel. Costs about £5.99 from a well known internet site. It is mentioned elsewhere on this forum but I have failed miserably in attaching a link. Sorry!
As mentioned, this is another very cheap and quick option.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/In-Car-Dash-Cam-DVR-Hardwire-Kit-Mini-USB-Head-Cable-with-Switch-Tools-3-5M/373453372425?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3Dad114ddee5f041be87f4f24ee62d35d4%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D164197308157%26itm%3D373453372425%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseUnbiasedWeb%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851

It plugs into the OBD2 port under the steering wheel, so much shorter cable run. Has a switch which allows 2 settings. Either powered all the time, or powered just for 5 minutes after car if "switched off". Worked perfectly for me, and powers my 2 camera (front and rear) setup!
 
#13 ·
Hi, just coming back to your original post, what the Halfords person said to you was a load of tosh.

I have had my BlackVue 2 channel dash cam fitted to my I-Pace in July of 2019. It was done at Halfords (Friern Barnet, North London) and he did a brilliant job. All done in 1 hour and all the cables concealed. You can see pictures of the job done on my car in other threads I had posted on just look for BlackVue DR9000s-2CH.

Back then I thought I had to buy a BlackMagic Pro which is a devices fitted between the car and the camera and monitors when the battery level falls below a certain amount and then cuts the feed to the dash cam. This is so that the dash cam doesn't run the 12v battery flat.

However, pretty soon after fitting it and while looking on this forum, I became aware that the I-Pace High Voltage Battery tops up the 12v battery all the time to make sure it doesn't fall below usable amounts. This is the same for most EVs and this is the reason for some of the "phantom drain" related to EV.

I removed the BlackMagic Pro almost a year ago now and I have never had the 12v battery fall below the level that the camera stops recording (my cameras record all the time and it doesn't turn off when the car is parked) and this is because.... the HVB trickle charges the 12v....
 
#14 ·
ianipace said:
You need to go the www.powerfuluk.com
Entrer Item Part No. EWL200-Tap-Loom
or Part No. EWL303-Kit if your dash cam is powered by USB (5v)
The parts have being marked as "not available" on Powerful Uk website for quite some days. Do you have any news from them? It's just a shortage or is there any problem with the part itself?
 
#15 ·
Hi kermit68, apparently there is a shortage of parts (Bloody Brexit) and the possibility of a re-design to allow the addition of the 12v switched feed to be used. This is the feed that controls the interior lighting and goes off when the car is locked.
So, ideally, there will be the option of 12v always on and 12v off when locked.
12v always on for the BlackVue and 12v switched for the GPS add on receiver, as you don't need the GPS when parked!

I'll try and find out when the parts are expected. As far as I know the plug and socket used are not UK made!

Stay safe

Ian
 
#17 ·
ianipace said:
Hi kermit68, apparently there is a shortage of parts (Bloody Brexit) and the possibility of a re-design to allow the addition of the 12v switched feed to be used. This is the feed that controls the interior lighting and goes off when the car is locked.
So, ideally, there will be the option of 12v always on and 12v off when locked.
12v always on for the BlackVue and 12v switched for the GPS add on receiver, as you don't need the GPS when parked!

I'll try and find out when the parts are expected. As far as I know the plug and socket used are not UK made!

Stay safe

Ian
Thanks Ian. I'll be travelling for 2700 km in less than 4 days in mid May and Powercruisecontrol does't get the GPS data from the car on MY21. I have a beta version that is using the smartphone GPS but as you know the signal is horrible. I needed the part to do a clean installation of my GPS repeater but I guess I'll have to improvise as I don't see the loom from Poweruk coming any soon, especially shipped to EU (thanks Brexit ...)

But thanks again for the info, now at least I know I have to find quickly another solution.
 
#18 ·
The loom is a very neat way of obtaining a 12v feed close to the dash cam. Incidentally JLR use this same method of getting 12v for their own Dash Cam.
It is a thought, but maybe JLR sell this jumper loom, in a comparison it appears identical to the PowerfulUK version (Very difficult to make a loom differently!), as a spare part outside of the Dash Cam kit.
The one I have seen is L:and Rover, but I think Jaguar do sell a Dash Cam with Jaguar on it instead of Land Rover!

As for getting GPS inside the car, that GPS receiver kit from Amazon I posted before (priced variously from £10 to £30) will get the GPS signal to your phone inside the car. As it is powered by a USB plug it is possible to have it in the lower centre console and place the receiving antenna under the plastic trim in the frunk, the trim that covers the wiper mechanism. The block that transmits the GPS just needs to be near your phone.

When I first experimented with the GPS kit I had my dash cam inside the house, definitely no GPS signal and the receiving antenna outside the back door of the house. When fired up the dash Cam it had a solid GPS signal from the receiver kit, I also tried it with my TomTom Sat Nav where I could see the number of satellites received. I had the full compliment of around 8 satellites, which means the highest accuracy.
So the GPS receiver kit does what it says on the tin!

If you can get the GPS kit from Amazon it time, and can mount the receiving antenna on the outside, Power Cruise Control should work well.

By the way a quick, not very tidy route, is run the cable from the rear of the car, mounting the antenna on the outside of the tailgate or near the number plate and run the cable to the front. Not neat, I know, but as I found out in my trials, very effective. You get 5 metres of cable, so plenty to play with! The tailgate seal is soft rubber and doesn't harm the coax cable because it is very thin.

You can route everything neatly at your leisure!

Stay safe.

Ian
 
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#19 ·
Thanks Ian, I already purchased a GPS receiver that I was using in my previous I-Pace. I placed the antenna in the space between the tailgate and the "shark" fin. Maybe a picture would be clearer, I'll eventually post it. From there I routed the cable till the center console, pretty much invisible apart from the very last part.

Then, reading your post about the dashcam, I liked to move the transmitter from the center console to the headline using the loom for 12V/5V power. Since the loom won't be available soon I could get the power directly from the cables, I have some skill in DYI works so it won't be impossible. I've also seen a 12V/5V DC-DC converter with female USB port in Amazon (or ebay) that I could use.
But honestly at the moment the center console setup works so I don't know if I'm really in the mood to do the work :D
 
#20 ·
A GPS repeater in the aft spoiler left wing:
(Based on VPLKV0134)
Take out upper cap left (T4K1753).
Drop the coax down to the flex tube and store the GPS Rx.
The tube need a small cut at the spoiler end (to be resealed).
Coax thru the flex tube, under the headlining, over the doors
to the front windscreen and to the overhead console.
Put the GPS transmitter under the headlining above the dashcam.

Power supply:
12V to Blackvue (aft fuse box or console loom).
USB 5V (the car USB or 12V to 5V converter).
 
#21 ·
aviocat said:
A GPS repeater in the aft spoiler left wing:

Take out upper cap left (T4K1752).
Drop the coax down to the flex tube and store the GPS Rx.
The tube need a small cut at the spoiler end (to be resealed).
Coax thru the flex tube, under the headlining, over the doors
to the front windscreen and to the overhead console.
Put the GPS transmitter under the headlining above the dashcam.

Power supply:
12V to Blackvue (aft fuse box or console loom).
USB 5V (the car USB or 12V to 5V converter).
Do you have any photos?
 
#23 ·
Topdown said:
aviocat said:
A GPS repeater in the aft spoiler left wing:

Take out upper cap left (T4K1752).
Drop the coax down to the flex tube and store the GPS Rx.
The tube need a small cut at the spoiler end (to be resealed).
Coax thru the flex tube, under the headlining, over the doors
to the front windscreen and to the overhead console.
Put the GPS transmitter under the headlining above the dashcam.

Power supply:
12V to Blackvue (aft fuse box or console loom).
USB 5V (the car USB or 12V to 5V converter).
Do you have any photos?
Many thanks great Mod!
 
#24 ·
I know sometime ago some contributors to this forum had their dash cam fitted by Halfords. I have tried three branches and they have all told me that they are unable to fit them to all electric vehicles. I am not clever enough to fit it myself. Can anyone let me know if they have had one fitted by Halfords? Thanks.
 
#25 ·
Mount the front Dashcam directly below the cover behind the rear view mirror and route the cables under the cover, it pulls apart fairly easily, then NO ISSUES with GPS signal to Dashcam. I have installed 4 Thinkware Dual Dashcams, 1 Nextbase Dual and 1 Halo Pro Dual, all into I-Pace with no issues with GPS, 12v drainage or interference with other electronics like radio, etc. 😜👍
 
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